General Knot & Co.
Bespoke, vintage, masculine and stylish – General Knot & Co. aims to blend it all in each one of their hand-made ties. The brainchild of founder Andrew Payne, the brand is chock full of ties cut from vintage fabric and stitched in the U.S. by top-notch tailors.
As a kid, Andrew was the only one he knew who didn’t protest when having to wear a necktie. Instead, he relished the experience. The New York city-based clothing designer (by way of Greensboro, North Carolina) always had an eye for a great accessory, so when he found himself in college studying business and chemistry, he quickly adjusted his educational path to include a degree from Parson’s School of Design. Upon graduation, he went to work designing collections for fashion heavy-weights Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger. Andrew explains, “Each step along the way has been both a great learning experience and a hell of a lot of fun. I clearly made the right decision to leave business school.”
All of the offerings from General Knot & Co. are cut from vintage material, sourced from estate sales, auctions, antique shows and markets all over the country. Check, chambray, gingham, floral, tartan, plaid and denim fabrics are on offer, cut into either a bow tie, classic necktie (measures 2 7/8” wide) or pocket square. Because each collection is made in limited quantities, each tie (bow ties start at $68 and neckties at $88) comes boxed with a numbered card, much like a piece of art. Payne and his team will even customize a collection of ties for weddings and special occasions.
Beyond just the appearance of a tie, we asked Andrew to share with us what makes for a quality product:
First, the fabric should be cut perfectly on the bias (diagonally to the weave of the fabric). Anything off will not allow a smooth and even drape. Secondly, but possibly the most important, is the interlining (the white fabric inside a tie). The quality, perfect cut, nap (brushed on the face) and weight are all essential. The interlining provides the foundation for the tie’s fabric and construction and gives the tie body, without being too heavy or too lightweight. Finally, something I always look for is the hand-twisted tack/stitch on the back bottom, just above the tipping. It acts like a quality brace holding the “curtains” closed. To me, it’s an indication of the handwork that is most likely on the inside, giving the tie a beautiful shape and drape.
