With the Saints’ victory, Mardi Gras upon us and the winter in full swing here in the South, there is hardly a more fitting time to cook up some gumbo. Our friends at the Southern Foodways Alliance have graciously shared the below “intro to gumbo,” which we hope will be a useful jumping off point. For more about their Southern Gumbo Trail project or famous Louisiana recipes, follow the links.

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By Amy Evans Streeter, Southern Foodways Alliance

“A GUMBO PRIMER

There are as many variations of gumbo as there are people who make it. But the foundation of any gumbo is the thickener. Some consider okra as the original gumbo base. But then there is the old rule of gumbo-making, “First you make a roux.” Others are of the opinion that filé is the only proper gumbo thickener. Then there are cooks who use some combination thereof. Whatever the style, tradition, or preference, here are descriptions of these gumbo cornerstones to get you primed for your journey down the Southern Gumbo Trail.

For many, OKRA, that spiny and slimy pod, is the only way to thicken a gumbo. Okra not only thickens a gumbo; it adds flavor. It is usually sliced and then sautéed with what many consider the holy trinity of gumbo-making: onions, celery and bell peppers. Okra gumbo has a subtler flavor than filé- or roux-based gumbos.

FILÉ is dried and ground sassafras leaves. It is usually added to a gumbo at the very end of the cooking process or to individual servings. Many prefer filé for its distinctive musty, tea-like flavor. It is sometimes called “gumbo filé.” The Cajuns and Creoles learned about filé from the Choctaw Indians of the Gulf South. Some maintain that filé was used when okra was out of season. Today, both gumbos are made year-round. Combining filé with okra is uncommon.

A ROUX, used as a thickening agent, is achieved by cooking flour and a fat (butter, vegetable oil, or even olive oil) together over high heat. The rich nuttiness of the roux intensifies with cooking, which also affects its color. A roux is used in various recipes; different colors are desired for different dishes. Some use a peanut butter colored roux, while others strive for an almost black roux.

Historically, a seafood gumbo was not made with filé because okra would be in season when seafood was fresh. A duck or venison gumbo would not have okra in it, since hunting season falls during winter and fall, when okra could not be found. While these traditions sprang from simple availability of ingredients, they still hold true in many parts of the South’s gumbo tradition.”

This entry was posted on Tuesday, February 23rd, 2010 at 12:35 pm and is filed under Food.